Has Study Abroad Improved My Spanish?

Obviously one of my reasons for studying abroad was to learn Spanish.  I’m not sure what the point of majoring in a language is in college if you don’t also visit the place where it is spoken, learn about its people and culture, and prove you can function in another country.  My last Spanish conversation and grammar class before coming here was in fall 2011, and since then, the Spanish classes I have taken have been very academic looks at culture, literature, and linguistics.  Though I learned a great deal in these classes, I was not practicing my conversation abilities; I was instead analyzing the stanza-structure of twentieth-century Spanish poetry (obviously this skill helps tremendously in my everyday life).  I would even venture to say that at the end of my sophomore year at college, I had an easier time speaking Portuguese conversationally than Spanish. 

I have pretty high standards for myself academically (who knew?), and so I do get discouraged when I mess up.  The people in my life in Buenos Aires all speak English, so while I do talk in Spanish a good portion of the time, I always have the “Can I ask you what word I should be saying in English” crutch.  My struggles with Spanish are pretty notable, so much so that yesterday, at my tutoring session for one of my classes, my tutor actually complimented me on my correct use of the past tense.  It doesn’t help that Spanish has two past tenses and the subjunctive (used for “the worlds of mystery, desire, and doubt,” as explained to me by my friend’s father), making hard sentences even harder to express.  I know I use the wrong gender for words all the time or say things in the wrong verb tense.  I feel just as frustrated today as I did during my first days here.

So the question I ask myself every day is, has my Spanish actually improved since coming to Argentina? 

I would have to say yes, just by the fact that I end up practicing hours and hours every day.  I know that my accent is still a little off, that I can’t say my rs, ts, or ds correctly, and that I still use words that are from Spain or Mexico instead of Argentina.  However, I got the double-l makes the sh sound down perfectly, and with some words, I can fake the right musicality of a native speaker.  I can at least hold my own in a conversation with strangers about where the bus stop is, why the line is taking so long at the grocery, or about the visa process in the elevator at the Brazilian consulate.  I try as hard as possible to remind myself of the positive strides I have made in speaker and to shake off my frequent errors. 

My realization that my Spanish isn’t as bad as I think it is (and the inspiration for this blog post) was a funny situation from my Latin America in International Politics Class.  A professor from Miami (Ohio) University was visiting the Catholic University where I take this class to give a presentation, and a young man from the State Department accompanied him.  The guy from the State Department has been tasked with giving a brief introduction the speaker.  He appeared to be in his early 20s, maybe in his first or second job. 

He begins to speak—oh man, his Spanish is awful!  His accent is terrible, as he is pronouncing the letter h (silent in Spanish), referring to the region as latino America (América latina), and throwing in English phrases that are easily translated to Spanish.  He looks cool and calm, despite the fact that he is embarrassing himself in front of this professor, the faculty of the International Relations department, and a room full of students who all speak at least some English.  It was unclear to me how this kid was hired at the State Department, especially considering how many good Spanish-speakers live in the United States.  I was sitting with some other exchange students, and we realized that we probably could have given a more fluid and understandable introduction than this guy.  And upon seeing the fact that this fumbling guy was able to land a Spanish-speaking job for the U.S. government, I felt a lot better about my own abilities.

Historias Extraordinarias

I am strongly opposed to the study abroad blog posts that clump time together by weeks (“Sorry for the delay- here’s a listing of what I did in week three!”), an artificial way to organize an experience that is better understood as themes or changes over time.   However, in light of recent events, I will be writing an alternative version of this kind of post, modeled after Historias Extraordinarias, a four-hour film by Mariano Llinás I watched for my New Argentine Cinema class.  The movie, adapted from a book by Roald Dahl, is three unconnected extraordinary stories told with the help of narrators.  I can see the connection to my life in Argentina, as my chaotic life in Buenos Aires has taken a turn for the absurd over the past few weeks.  Here I present three of my most extraordinary tales:

1 – Foot in Bus: I was on my way to see an apartment my family was thinking about renting for when they come to visit.  I was running late and I saw the bus I needed to take at its stop.  I run to the bus and am able to get my foot onto the platform just as the door is shutting.  There is about two inches of rubber on the bottom of the door, so while I am not in pain, I cannot get my foot out and the bus has started to move.  With the weight of my backpack pulling me the opposite direction, I grab onto the handles on the side of the door and hope for the best.  Thankfully, a woman inside the bus sees me (how could you miss a girl riding on the side of the bus) and screams at the driver to stop. 

2 – The Tickets: My friends Haley and Katie have been working hard to plan this South American travel extravaganza at the beginning of December in which we would travel to Machu Picchu as well as parts of Peru, Bolivia, and Chile.  A common theme of our time in Buenos Aires is the challenge of purchasing plane tickets—prices are different online and in the travel office, depending nationality and residency designations, and related to the currency you use to pay.  We had to go personally to all the potential airlines to ask about prices; by far the best discussion was when we found out we could avoid the 20% Argentine foreign airline tax by pretending (either using internet or ambiguous phone number) to be in Chile. 

The weather was particularly bad that day—Buenos Aires was experiencing Berta, a large storm of some kind that was consequential enough to get a name.  We decided to check one last airline, LAN, and found out their prices were almost half of what we thought we would have to pay. I was with Katie, and we knew that we had to book and pay for the tickets that day.  In Argentina, I always pay in cash and use a service where I send myself money to take advantage of a significantly better exchange rate.  I only had a copy of my passport (you need your real passport to get money) and not enough money with me, so I decided to send the money to Katie.  We head over to the place where we get money and wait, and wait, and wait.  Katie returns to the LAN office and buys her ticket, and we are still unclear what has happened and why my money is not going through.  Our reservation, which guarantees the great price for the tickets, is only good until the office closes at the end of the day.

Very confused, I return home to see if I have enough money and to get my ATM card.  Upon looking at the money service online, I discover my account has been frozen—has someone stolen my number?  Is my bank account suddenly empty? My initial thoughts are panicked.  I call the customer service number (the hold song is “Don’t Worry About a Thing, Be Happy” by Bob Marley on repeat), and it appears that sending money to my friend was enough to set off their alert system.  After a frustrating series of conversations (“You’re in Buenos Aires but your bank account is in the United States?” “You weren’t carrying your passport on you at all times?”), I am able to cancel the problematic transaction and resend myself the money.  At this point, it is 4:45 p.m.—money takes between 30-45 minutes to be ready for pick up, the ticket office closes at 6 p.m., and I am at home 30 minutes away. 

I grab all the money I have at home and run for the bus—forgetting my umbrella and thus getting the full wrath of Berta—and get on.  I get a text message from Katie that between the two of us at that moment, we have enough to buy my ticket but I need to get to the LAN office right away.  I find a cab and make it to the LAN office in nine minutes (this is insanely fast) and though dripping with water, I am able to buy the ticket.  Katie and I then go back to the money place, where my money is ready at 5:30. 

3 – The Returned Wallet: One Saturday a few weeks ago, I went out on a date and had my first burrito in almost three months—though it was not at Qdoba or Chipotle standards, I was still quite happy.  I thought where we were sitting was fairly closed off, so I put my purse on the ground.  As I am doing it, I think, Oh, this should be fine, nothing bad will happen. 

I have been told as a student in Latin America that as soon as I begin to get comfortable and letting my guard down, something bad will happen.  And it did—not long after, I realize my bag is missing.  I now have no phone, keys, or wallet (complete with Visa card) and it is almost midnight on a Saturday.  The situation is further complicated because the woman I live with, Delfi, told me she was most likely going to a Halloween party and would not be home, so going right home was not an option.  I don’t know anyone’s phone number from memory, and the guy I was with and I are unable to find any wifi connection to send a message to Delfi nor my parents.  Eventually, I get home, just thankful that nothing more serious has happened. I am very thankful that I was with someone (public thank you to Sebastian for handling this situation much better than I could have) and not by myself.

I start the process of replacing all the items that were in the wallet.  On Monday, I went to school for my Spanish grammar class and stopped in the computer lab to check my email afterwards.  I have an email from one of the program coordinators that someone has found my wallet—how could this be?  Turns out the emergency card from my study abroad program, which has phone numbers and contacts should someone find us (or our wallets) in trouble, came in handy.  A doorman found my wallet thrown on the side of the street and called the emergency line.  Haley and I head over to where he works, unclear what exactly has been recovered. 

When we get there, we meet Oskar the doorman, who happily gives me my wallet back.  After as profuse of a thank you as I can give in Spanish (I repeat muchisimas gracias a dozen times), I assess the situation: I have no money nor metro card, but everything else—my credit card, student ID, almost completed free frozen yogurt card—is still there. 

High Holidays in Argentina

One of the reasons I chose to study abroad in Argentina was the large Jewish population.  I knew I wanted to go somewhere that spoke Spanish, so I thought that a country that had the flavor of both would be a good fit for me. We also have family, the Zvaigs, who live here; when the Zweigs left the old country—generally defined in the family lore as Lithuania—some went to the United States and some came to Argentina. This seemed like a great opportunity to connect with my family too. 

Even though Buenos Aires has a large Jewish population, it’s still not the easiest country to practice Judaism. There is the only Kosher McDonald’s outside of Israel, but if you want a Big Mac, all you have to do is walk across the food court to the regular McDonald’s. I have been desperately searching for weeks for sliced turkey and have been unsuccessful—all I see is ham, ham, and more ham.

Getting into any kind of Jewish place is also a challenge.  I have passed by temples and synagogues with very high security, which is a response to the 1994 bombing of the Argentine Israelite Mutual Association, which killed 85 people and injured many others.  The Argentine government had problems with the investigation, and the bombers allegedly have ties to Iran and Hezbollah; the government only this year created a Truth Commission to investigate what happened.

So after several weeks in the country, I knew it was time to start looking for a place to celebrate the High Holidays since my cousins were going to be out of town. I asked the other Jewish students on my program, my host, and others for ideas. Finally, I got some suggestions from Rabbi Cattapan and began the process of trying to acquire a ticket. Due to my busy schedule (unavailable many days during normal business hours) and not starting the process soon enough, I was running around the city the Wednesday of Rosh Hashanah with nowhere to go. As it turned out, I had an unusual experience that worked out very well.

I ended up attending virtual temple for Rosh Hashanah evening—I set up the live stream from an Argentine congregation and watched from my living room. The service started 45 minutes late, but the music and the order of the service were exactly the same as at Achduth Vesholom. They had a small choir, and a female rabbi led the service and gave the sermon. The Spanish was pretty easy to follow and I liked and, more importantly, understood the sermon, though I am not used to hearing Spanish and Hebrew mixed together. One of the perks of attending services from home is that you can snack during the service—for an Argentine take on the traditional Rosh Hashanah snack, I had apples and dulce de leche.

For Yom Kippur, I had a more traditional worship experience. My cousins invited me to go to Kol Nidre with them. We did not attend their usual congregation, but instead went to their kids’ Jewish day school outside of the city of Buenos Aires. There was a lot of security around the school. 

Normally, I feel like Yom Kippur is a somber and solemn occasion—yet this was not the case in Argentina.  They had a Friday Night Live-style band, and everyone was singing along with the choir. Since the service was at a school, there were lots of young people, and even activities outside of the service for the younger kids. Everything was much more upbeat and very happy. Argentine culture is also very friendly and affectionate, so I was not particularly surprised to be kissed by at least a dozen people wishing me a happy Yom Kippur. We even got a Ba-al Shem Tov story just like at GUCI (Goldman Union Camp Institute), so I felt right at home.

Having begun the year with distinct holiday experiences, I’m excited to learn and explore more Judaism in Buenos Aires.

  A version of this post ran in the October issue of the Congregation Achduth Vesholom bulletin in Fort Wayne, Indiana.